Hello group members, good news for those are interested in Dlp 3d printer led based technology. Kkrobotic launch many model like microprotojet, caliber 100, caliber 200, caliber 300 with uv led based technology which has long lasting life of both machine and projector. Machine are also 5x time faster than other machine are available in market.
Today I switched out my brass nozzle for a hardened steel one so I could print some more abrasive filaments. I noticed that my prints began to de-laminate really easily after this upgrade. I increased my temps and that seamed to fix the issue.. Is that normal? Is steel just less thermally conductive and thus needing a higher temperature?   The picture is just my two nozzles side by side
Hi! For my graduation project I am looking for a special 3D printer. For the production of a large installation I especially need a wide x and y axis. Anything from 1 meter x 1 meter is interesting to me. In height I am only printing a few millimeters. I already found a Big Rep in the Netherlands, and 10XL. But they mostly have no time available on their machines.
As I finish a print, I just saw that my bed temperature was 107ºC, even that I printed at 60ºC. As the nozzle heat was cooling, the bed stayed at 107ºC. I realized that it had some problem, then I tried to reconnect the bed sensor. Nothing happened. Then, reconnected the nozzle sensor, and appeared "def" on both of the Temperatures. I also checked the voltage of the nozzle sensor: 5v.
Very large format printing area Compliant with the “Machine Directive” (2006/42/CE) Industrial quality and reliability Various worked plastic materials Direct printing from SD Card Dual extruder.   The Olivetti S2 is the new 3D printer specifically designed for small and medium-sized enterprises engaged in the digital transformation process.
At first I thought I was just having an issue with the end stops because error #034 kept coming up, I switched out the end stops and tried to make sure the contacts were as plugged in as I possibly could-  but I think this may be a bigger issue because even when the 3d printer is off and unplugged I can't move the extruder head.
This is my first 3d Printer, I got it used and am having a blast printing all the things I can think of. I have ran into one "problem" though. I recently have been hearing this clicking noise, only when moving on the z axis. When off and I manually slide, it will also do the clicking. I can't really tell where it is coming from?
CTC Heatsink mod
After a frustrating few days last week, I had became rather fed up of having to remove the fan to get to the grub screw. At the same time the washers that space the stepper from the block would fall and they can be irritating to try and keep in place.   So I fixed it. Now I no longer need to remove anything to get to that pesky screw.  
Dear Everybody, I want to know what is the better 3D printer than I can buy to do some small car prototype and functionnal parts similar to the parts in attached? My budget is enter 1000 to 3000€ (or little more if needed) and I material than I want to use are: ABS, PLA, Nylon, Polycarbonate, PETG and perhaps flexible.
Selling a MakerBot Replicator 2 with a glass build plate.  The build plate has been printed on <10 times.  The nozzle and thermal barrier are newly replaced, with only about 10 hours of printing on them since replacement.  The panels have been removed, so the black sheet metal frame is visible (aesthetic only).   I'm looking for $750.
I have two Fusion3 F306 commercial grade 3D printers up for sale. Perfect working order. Printer is $5000 new.   I am asking $3,600 for each machine. If you want to buy both I can drop the price a little.    They are up for sale on ebay, so you can buy them strait from there.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/192267297672?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=...  

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