Anyone tried both materials? How to they measure up in terms of strength? I want to extrude PETG+ on my filabot. What can I use as a colorant? David
So if i print something it works great but after a few minutes it starts underextruding for no reason. Its bowden and the Motor starts slipping any idea why?
Hello guys, I just got a E3D HARDENED STEEL NOZZLE to print colorfabb XT-CF20 filament and I was wondering if there is a reason for me to change it back to the original E3D nozzles when printing non-abrasive material like ABS or PLA? Thanks, Pierre
Does nay one have a step by step instructions for installing the hot end on a xyz 1.0 printer. and does any one have instruction for installing repetier on the xyz 1.0 printer. I am not to tech savvy
Another try with a PETG based filament. Thw one I choosed qas the British racing green. Very nice and tought prints. I'm testing different materials for usable engineering grade...and this one is really a nice one to print with. With 225°C hotend and 70°C heated bed, I'm printing at 50mm/s and 0.1mm layers obtaining really food finish without strings between pieces printed at the same time.
I'm looking for a material for fdm printing that has a higher strength and layer adhesion than PLA and ABS and doesn't emit noxious fumes. I am currently looking at nylon, t-glase (pett), PET (CEP), acetal (delrin), ngen, and possibly poly carbonate. Needs to be available in 1.75mm sizes. I will be using an e3D v6 hot end
I installed the E3D metal hot end on my Hatchbox Alpha. I also installed the (supposedly) screw in compatible thermister. Using M303 E0 S200 C3 it should run a series of 3 heating cycles then give me an average of kP, kI, and kD....but the ONLY way I can get it to run multiple (3) cycles and return results is if I chance the value of C to "1"...????.....
Need help tuning PID settings, Upgraded to E3DV6 and updated firm ware but when ever i run M303, this occurs, also when i do test calibrations my hotend's temperature would dip dramatically mid-print.
Hello everyone, I've been trying to print ABS on my new 3dprinter for some time now, however the results are not what I hope for them to be. I've attached a picture, below are some of my parameters for printing, hopefully someone has some tips for me on what i'm doing wrong.
What do you exactly need to do to get the E3D V6 or V5 installed and upgraded on the R1+.
Hello, I just bought a 0.6 nozzle for my E3D V6, and it works well, but something odd is happening: http://sendvid.com/e8d0nwpo
If anyone is looking to improve the print quality on the Metal Plus: I have uploaded the design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1633615
I have placed my order on Matter Hackers for the E3d Titan and wanted to create a thread to talk about the benefits and process in adding the Titan to the DaVinci 1.0
Hi Everyone! :) As this is my first ever printer, I thought the Original Prusa i3 (http://shop.prusa3d.com/) would be a good choice with regards to Print quality/ flexible material capability/ Ease of use - calibration - assembly, from what I read. It does not have a dual extruder but perhaps that could be upgraded later.
Hi, I'm printing with the Colorfabb XT-CF20 filament with the new E3D nozzle. All going good, but it looks like the XT-CF20 filament extrudes allot more than PLA on the same flow settings. I calibrated the extruder so that 100mm filament is really 100mm, with PLA that was perfect, but now with the Colorfabb XT-CF20 it looks like I'm overextruding allot.
Hi guys, Im launching a project I've been working on for awhile on July 18th. The Versa3D is a exciting product for desktop fabrication. While it is an improved desktop 3D printer, it also has CNC and laser cutting abilities.
Hello All, Thought I would share my modification of my Flashforge Creator Pro X/Y carriage to accept an E3D hot end. I first printed the parts for adapting the Flashforge carriage to the E3D hotend from the Matterhackers tutorial here: https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/hack-your-makerbot-with-an-e3d-all-metal-hotend