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I am using a flashforge creator pro with slic3r. I have been ignoring my left nozzle because I have been unsuccessful at dual prints. I just got some PETG and thought I would load it on the left nozzle. When I ran the first test print I noticed that on the second layer it starts heating up the right nozzle. Does anyone have any idea what is happening?

I setup slic3r using this site. and I am running the latest sailfish firmware

EDIT: I was able to find a work around. In the ‘start G-code’ I changed one line

this:

“M109 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] T0; heat bed up to first layer temperature”

was chaged to this:

“M109 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] T1; heat bed up to first layer temperature”

then ‘filament settings’ under ‘temperature’ I changed the ‘other layers’ from 230 to 0.

I lose the temperature change on the first layers as a trade off so a better solution is still desirable.

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I had the exact same problem! Ended up with that I bought simolify 3d. Fixed it for me

3

3dUni is the right place to be looking for FF advice on setting up Slic3r. For Slic3r getting right, left or both extrudes to work on a given print is all about you custom start gcode. (One of the things that I dislike about setting up Slic3r and why I have been looking at Cura and KISSlicer.)

Gcode you need to check for your heads are these lines. M104 and M109, it looks like you already checked M109.

“M109” is your heated bed temperature. “Tx” is your tool head; “T0” right, “T1” left. For the bed you should use “T0” when you are printing with the right head or dual heads. Otherwise use T1 for the left (seems like you probably know this though)

“M104” is for heating your tool head you are going to use. S[first_layer_temperature_0] is you right heads temperature and S[first_layer_temperature_1] is for your left head… and Tx is the same as above.

So if you have this line in your gcode: M104 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0;

You need to change it to this for the left head: M104 S[first_layer_temperature_1] T1;

For printing with dual heads you would add both lines to preheat both heads before printing.

1 Like
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buy Simplify3D. it will make your life easier, and you can concentrate on the fun stuff.

(Ive got FFCP + Simplify3D)

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Call me strange but the times I’ve used Simplify3D I haven’t been totally sold on its perfection. For one I can’t get the fine details out of it that even RepicatorG could deliver.

A .4mm nozzle only provides about a 0.8 to 1mm level of detail in Simplify3D, while in RepG and Slic3r I could get 0.5mm or better (not talking layer thickness here, but detail.) While I am sure that is a setting somewhere in Simplify to improve or modify this, no one could fix it when I showed them the difference. If a freeware like RepG out preforms a paid software like Simplify3D in something big like this then I’ll stick with the free versions.

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I am not sold on it either, but every time I struggle with slic3r I get the same response, “Buy S3D!”. Then, inevitably, I find the problem, learn a little more about the power of Slic3r and keep on printing happy.