Bed adhesion problem - Creator Pro

I have a problem with the first layer not adhering to the bed correctly. I typically use a brim, and it almost never lays down correctly. I thought it was a moisture problem with my filament, but I just cracked open a new roll and I'm still having the same issue. Unless I print a really large print, I can't get it to stick. I've releveled many times. 

I'm using the stock bed that came with the Creator Pro, PLA exclusively, around 200 degrees C, 50 degrees C print bed temp and between 20-50 mm/s travel speed. I just opened some Opret filament, and was previously using some Hatchbox that had been out in the air for about a month (I print a lot of small things). 

Complicating this is that I may have damaged the printer a few weeks back. We had a power blip and when it came back on I sent it to "home position" so I could safely remove the failed print - thinking that home position would lower the bed (I should've re-read the manual). Instead the print bed raised (with my print still on it) directly into the y-axis rods. The rods visibly bowed a bit at the moment but I pulled the print bed down while cancelling that action, and I haven't seen any actual bowing permanently. I regreased the z and y axis rods as well. Fortunately the nozzle assembly was off to the side, but since then I've heard a slight crinkling at certain points when the z-axis rod is moving, and I'm assuming that I've busted the z-axis linear bearings. I need to fix that as well, but I don't really understand why I can't seem to get good bed adhesion. I've re-leveled the bed several times, and the issue isn't really location specific, but does seem to be more on the left than the right. 


Ordinarily, I would assume that I'm still having a filament problem or perhaps I should upgrade to a glass print bed, but I have a lurking fear that I've damaged something in my y-axis assembly which is somehow affecting nozzle height off the bed. Again, there's no visible change that I can see when it's printing but maybe someone here knows more than I do.

Any advice here, either on the potential damage to the printer, or on the bed adhesion, would be greatly appreciated. 


If you are using the "blue" surface that comes with the printer then what I would do is to clean it with alcohol or acetone.  If acetone then gentle wipes and not to much but a good clean bed is a must.


I start prints at 65 with that bed and then drop to 60 if needed but on a large print you may be fine at 65.

Run the filament hotter for the first layer, say 210 and slow the first layer speed.


This stuff can work fine once you get used to it.


It is highly unlikely that you damaged your rods from one time error.  I would lean away from that as the issue.

You need to really get your print head close the bed for your first layer.

Use a piece of standard copy paper on the bed.  Heat the bed. Use the level print bed utility.

Move the print head over over the front adjuster screw, with the paper on the bed, and screw until you can barely move the paper.  Ideally, I like to have what I call a "static" feel in my head where its not pulling hard to move, but I can definitely feel the print head on the paper when I move the paper under the print head.

Do the same for the left back screw, right back screw, and then do the front again. 

Heated bed for pla should be 60.

You want that first layer to really squish.



Now, you can get a more reliable way to get your filament to stick by adding a glass build plate.

Spray the glass with Aquanet Super Hold, put it on the bed, tape it down, preheat.

When the Aquanet self levels to clear, print your print.


If you are really squishing your first layer, it will stick really hard to the bed.  

Then take the glass build plate with your print, let it cool a little on its own, and put it in the freezer for a few minutes.  Obviously, this is a little dangerous, but I have been doing it for years with no issues.
The law of thermodynamics will separate your prints from your bed, they will literally fall off.


I use cheap glass from lowes.  I have found it to be more reliable than the expensive glass build plates, as the borosilicate plates tend to start chipping on their own in short order.  The cheap glass is fine....



Now, between now and when you get your glass build plate, you can always spray the aquanet on the blue build platform.  It gets nasty inside your printer if you are doing this, so if you are a neat freak, its not a good way to go....



The X and Y axis assembly is much more delicate than the Z-axis.  I would be surprised if you busted one of its linear bearings before doing additional damage to the carriage assembly.  During the 'crash' you might have knocked the idler pulleys loose.  One of my FFCP printers I bought used and it wasn't packaged correctly for shipping.  When I received it, the entire carriage assembly was knocked every which way.  After getting it together, it would print, but there was this "squeak, squeak, squeak", from the belts and such at certain spots, which at first I thought was coming from the Z-axis.  After closer examination, I found that the idler pulleys in the front top corners for the Y-axis belts were knocked sideways, causing the belts to not track straight.  And they not being straight kept the distance to the bed varying slightly over the print area, causing some adhesion issues at certain places.  You can get access to those idlers by taking the plastic side-panels off and examining it carefully.  And if need be, you can loosen the metal frame joints in that corner to get in and fix it.


Then, make sure the belts are properly tensioned and carefully check your bed leveling.  I generally use a feeler gauge (as used for automotive applications) to check my bed and use the 0.127mm or .005" gauge and check the run-out all around the bed.  And check both nozzles too in case one is higher than the other.  If they are, you'll need to fix that as the two nozzles should be flush with each other -- otherwise one nozzle will collide with the work printed by the other.


And I agree with the other responder that 50c is a little low on the bed temp.  I generally run PLA at 60-65c and ABS at 110c on the bed.



First of all I would fix all mechanical hardware problems as the nozzle needs to run parallel to the print bed within 0.1mm to 0.5mm.
A bed temp of 50 is a little low, 60 would be better

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