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1 hour 35 min ago - Commented on What materials is better for functional prototyping?


Simple answer is: It depends.


I am actually surprised your PLA testprint would bend so easily compared to ABS. PLA is normally speaking both stiffer than ABS, it's surface is much harder and the tensile strength of PLA is about twice (2x times) that of ABS.

The main advantages of ABS are it's higher temperature resistance and the much higher impact resistance. PLA has a very low impact resistance, which means it will break rather quickly under sudden stress whereas ABS will tend to 'give' under similar circumstances.


You can 'anneal' most PLA-brand in an oven which will make it stronger AND increase it's temperature resistance significantly.

More specifically, brands like 3D Fuel A-PLA, Fiberloggy HD-PLA, Innofill PRO1 or FormFutura Volcano-PLA are all ment to be annealed after printing, increasing both strength and temperature resistance up to 140 degrees Centigrade.

That said, annealing prints WILL cause some shrinking in your object. FormFutura Volcao-PLA is claimed to suffer the least in shrinking, but after annealing, its temp resistance is on par with ABS.

Please do remember that though strenght is increased by annealing, the impact strength does not seem to alter much and remains lower than that of ABS.


I would suggest you try PETG as a good alternative to both PLA and ABS. I just finished printing a children's made entirely from PETG apart from the TPE tires and a few metal parts like the wheel axles, some nuts and some Z608 bearings.



4 days 4 hours ago - Commented on 120 micron through holes printing!!!


I think you will need to experiment as to what settings you will need.

Holes are not real circles in a STL-file, but polygons, so the actual diameter is always smaller.

Also, since the material is always fluid, the hole gets smaller even more. 

I think that in the end you will need to drill the hole with a needle, provided there is a basis for it in the print.


4 days 5 hours ago - Commented on 120 micron through holes printing!!!


You did not specify if these holes will be printed horizontally or vertically.

Makes quite a difference.


In general, the size of the holes has little to do with your material. Just don't use any mixed filament stuff like carbonfill, wood or copper/bronze/steelfill.

You will need to do some experiement though with material, temperature and printspeeds.


1 week 2 hours ago - Commented on Why having an enclosure is good for preventing the toxic fume from coming out?


Simple answer:  It isn't.


Having an enclosure is better for printing objects that need a high(er) and more stable temperature environment like ABS or PETG.

So, an enclosure will be better for printing, not for you.


1 week 2 days ago - Commented on FDM 3D Printing Workstation Research


Here is a recent picture of my printerroom.


I have no problem in changing the nozzles on any of my printers. That said however, so far, I have very little need for that.

As for fresh air, you can't see it in the picture, but there is a ventilation opening above the window, so some fresh air is always coming in.

When printing large items in ABS I do set the window open slightly for extra ventilation.

Of course, I will not be in the room when the printers are working except for working on the printers.


1 week 6 days ago - Commented on Anet A8 - Pla anealing and printing flex material


So far, I have not annealed any of my prints made with standard PLA.

Standard PLA is already pretty strong in terms of pure tensile strength(stronger than most other materials) and also very stiff. It is in the impact strength department that PLA is lacking. Prints in PLA can be very strong, but if put under variable stress loads, they will often crack because the material doesn't flex much and develops cracks at stress points.


Annealing PLA is AFAIK mostly done for increasing its heat resistance. There are a number of PLA filaments available which were designed for annealing.

Innofil - PRO1 - highest heat resistance after annealing (140 degrees Celsius)

3DFuel - A-PLA

Fiberlogy - HD-PLA

FormFuturea - Volcano PLA - lowest heat resistance after annealing (95 degrees), but claimed to have the lowest shrinkage after annealing.


2 weeks 2 days ago - Commented on Flashforge creator pro doesn't print the exact dimension


Sorry, but your post is very vague and as such, no one will be able to help you address your problem.

We would need to have more specific informations that just the statement that 'a' print comes out 'smaller'.

HOW MUCH smaller is the print.

Are we talking about cm's?  Are we talking about several mm's?  Are we talking about X-, Y-, or Z-axis or any combination thereoff?


If you print a square 50x50x10 cm (length x width x height), what are the actual dimensions of the result after printing?

If the difference is less that 0.25 mm in any direction your printed is well within what can be expected.


2 weeks 3 days ago - Commented on Footwear student


Hi Lucy,


Reading your post makes me remind myself that I actually bought a roll of this stuff some time ago but so far have not gotton around to it to actually paly with it. First because I am very busy practically all the time and probably also because I don't really have anything specific to print with this.

If you can give me (or us) an idea of what you would like to print, we can perhaps work something out.


2 weeks 5 days ago - Commented on Ultimaker 3 Extended, Lulzbot TAZ 6, Raise 3D N2 and N2+ or Up Box+


Really some one with lots of experience with the Raise should answer here.


When I became interested in the DE-Plus, I tried to find reviews and could not really find any. Most were on the DX models and actually, these were often not very positive. I looked around, even went to a store that sold the DX-models and in the end, simply contacted the manufacturer and asked lots of questions and only then, I decided to buy one.

So far, no regrets. Actually, all three of them are printing right now (two of them on 48+ hour jobs).

Are the Creatbots perfect? No, not by a long shot.


That said, please remember that 3D Printing is NOT A PLUG-AND-PLAY technology. Not even close.

It is my belief that EVERY 3D Printer out there, from a 199$ cheap model to a 30.000$ professional will develop issues at some point or will need some tinkering or sometimes new parts of simple maintenance.

As a user, you will need to get to know your printer and if you have none, you will need to develop the skills to make the right connection between an ocurring error and it's cause.

There are some many variables involved that just finding the cause of a problem can take time.

The more you experiment, the more problems you will find. But also, the more experience you will attain which will, if properly applied, lead to better prints and more possibilities.


All the printers your mentioned are capable of printing similar quality prints (imho). But they are also ALL capable of producing very bad or simply failed prints with the wrong use. It's sometimes is a bit like cooking. A good cook can make a marvelous with just a handful of ingredients. But you can give a bad cook all the best ingredients in the world but the results will still be just a KFC menu...


2 weeks 5 days ago - Commented on Ultimaker 3 Extended, Lulzbot TAZ 6, Raise 3D N2 and N2+ or Up Box+


Hi there,


Again, I can only tell you my experiences with the Creatbots as I don't have a Raise N2 Plus or TAZ6.

The Raise is probably the most advanced printer of the three and the TAZ6 the simplest.


As for the TAZ6, it does not have an enclosed build platform like the other two. It has the smallest build volume (half the size of the DE, and approx. 1/3 of the DE Plus and Raise N2Plus).

Also, I don't like a printer with a moving bed, period. The bigger and heavier the print, the larger the inertia of the printbed to move.


The Raise has all kinds of nice features like the touchscreen and enclosed build platform and the Plus has the tallest platform. It is also the most expensive. The support of the Raise is probably (much) better than Creatbots, although my contacts with CB has so far been very fast and good.

I chose the Creatbot because of the larger printbed (the 10 cm/4" extra length is very handy. The interface is very standard but I don't mind that. It does have the auto shutoff and filament error detection which I like very much. Price of the Creatbot is between the other two.