Hi Everyone, Im thinking about purchasing a Projet 660 soon for full color prints. I was wondering if it is a good time to buy one now, or if I should wait for a new update to come out. I haven't seen anything in the news, but I'm a bit concerned since it's big investment for me. What do you guys think? thanks -Steven
Hi all. I'm trying to find some place besides Ebay to sell our Objet 30 printer. We bought the printer back in 2012 for demonstration purposes (we are an educational provider) but never used it. It's actually still in the crate along with the Waterjet unit. If anyone knows of a good place to start I'd really appreciate it.
could someone give some insight on whats causing this "rippling" on the surface of flat parts? been running my qiditech one for about 5 months with no issue, and this issue pops up every now and then, but i cant figure out what causes it. It almost looks like a raised ripple pattern.... ive adjusted the layer heights and bed level to no avail.
I bought the MP select mini and have not been able to get the cura software to print to it; tried both direct and exporting a gcode file to a sd card. from sd card, it heats up, then drips a little media, but doesn't move. i used the software they sent with it, then i installed and used the latest version of cura. both with the same results.
Hello, I recently bought a replacement motherboard for my flashforge creator pro, as the last one went out.
I want to print a project that is a ring with an embossed symbol (attached) and I wanted to know if 3d printers could print overhangs that protrude around 1 to 2 mm without any support, like in my model
I have ordered a micro swiss all metal hot end..now comes the issue of getting my printer to run up to and print at 300c. I am running simplify3d... any help would be great. thanks all.
Hi, I have a small Problem with my 3D prints. In the photos you can se in the front the overlapping layers does anyone know what the problem is and how to solve it ?0 It happens only with ABS and HT filament, PLA and Bronze filament are working perfectly fine. It would realy help me out a lot
I have two Original Prusa i3 MK2 kits (orange) that I had ordered back on December 13th in anticipation of a project that did not materialize. The kits finally arrived last week. They have not been opened to the point they still have the dark plastic wrapping on the shipping boxes.
Hello guys, I'm totally puzzled. I know acetal rods are a lightweight replacement for steel rods etc and I was wondering if I could use them for the X axis of my 3d printer project. I see a lot of infos about 3d printing with acetal filament, butr, apparently, nobody ever tried to switch their rods to these to gain weight?
Hi everyone, I have recently ordered a Prusa i3 mk2 (Still waiting for it to arrive) and we have a Zortrax M200 at work so I was able to gather some experience with 3D Printing. When my Prusa arrives I want to build up some knowledge about filaments. Which filament brands would you guys recommend? I have seen that eSun gets good scores and others say that it`s brittle...
Anyone ever printed at .03mm layers on a CTC I just did it. Not a great looking print at the top but it worked!! Had to change fillament halfway througj, ran out.
Hello, I've been researching the <£300 3d market and these two are my favourite.I like the A3 because it's in a self contained box and is only 32x34x38cm in size! But the A6 basically performs the same as the A3 but is a little bigger and is £80 cheaper.
Hello everyone, I have been working on a project that all of the 3D printer enthusiasts would definitely like! We often face trouble forgetting to place the order once our filament is coming to an end. Well, no more! I have designed ReFILL-ament such that it automatically tracks your filament usage and places the order on your behalf once it is coming to completion!
The fan for my right extruder (CTC Bizer Dual) had started to run a little slowly so I replaced it. Did all the checks that I had rewired a new one (12V/40mm) properly. It ran ok during preheat and kicked in at 50'c like normal. Changed it to feed in the filament and the fan stopped even when it was over 150'c. Left it to cool down as I didn't want any damage to the stepper motor etc.
I left a print on over night (I made sure the first portion printed fine and the layers were sticking) but when I got back this morning I found this: I tried to pull it off with pliers, but I don't want to break any part of the machine. I was also trying to heat it up to pull it off easier but it didn't seem to be doing much for me. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help in advance.
First off, I have had the printer since December and have had no problems with numerous prints. Yesterday however, during the middle of a print, the print head stopped extruding, raised up slightly and went straight back to the middle back of the bed where it stopped and a weird clicking sound started.
FDM parts have micro cracks and holes in germs can accumulate. I'm looking for a sealant to make 3D parts easy to clean. Basically making sure the parts have a smooth surface within (micro) cracks and holes. I'm thinking about coating the prints with silicone. People have experience with silicone coating or other sealants that might work? BTW the parts are printed with ABS.
when I try to print, my bed drops 15mm then starts printing (air printing). Is it from how my marlin is set up? I'm using a Davinci AIO with a ramps 1.4 and Repetier Host.
I was printing a vase. I am not sure what happened but on the back side of the vase you could see a clear pattern of something... I am not sure if it is layer shifting or something else. It is only on the back of the print. I am using the i3 Prusa MK2. Any ideas what this is? I haven't noticed it in any other prints.