I'm seriously looking at adding a CR-10S to my printers, but I'm torn between the 300mm version and the 400mm. The 300mm is bigger than my current options, but the 400mm might offer much more versatility. My main concern about the 400mm version (apart from the £150 extra cost) is the power required to heat the bed when perhaps only a relatively small model is being printed. As I understand it,
TEVO blackwidow, fully assembled and working, i have a new board with BL touch included with the sale (not fitted) these are around $650 aud asking $425ono email@example.com
Hello, anybody using the new PRO2? How is it? If you have used both the PRO2 and the previous N2/N2+, which do you recommend? Thanks
Hello, I have been having two issues with the bed in Renkforce 1000. Issue #1 - The bed is tilted, I can tell because when I print more than one object along the x axis, the first layers turn out different, and the more the extruder goes to the right, the furthest it is from the bed
I am *brand new* to 3d printing and setting up my first 3d printer. All was going swell until I got to the point to do my first test print.
I have two QIDI Tech 2 machines. The newest model will not lowwer platform after cancelling a print? The first one always lowers platform after cancel. They have the same versions of sailfish v7.8 but have different AtMega 2560 dates. I am afraid to try the update.cbd of the firmware since my first amchine works fine. Any help on this or updates. Joe
Attached are some photos that i am having issues with. I have printed the test print that came on the printers SD card with success, looked awesome, but this test was pre-sliced. I have since downloaded Cura and have had issues. Every print i do looks as if the bottom, top, and shell are not printing right. You can see right through the pieces.
Usually, users and 3D print operators are always asking for the maximum temperature their material or prints can be used at. The internet is full of comparisons of various materials heat range. But what about when you need to make prints that are to be used at sub-zero temperatures?
Hi guys, if you're looking to buy 3D models for printing, now's a perfect time! CGTrader’s birthday sale is on May 22-29 with over 250,000 3D models (for games, VR, architecture and 3D printing) going on sale for up to 50% off. 3D artists are giving discounts to celebrate the 7th birthday of the marketplace that has the fairest conditions for designers worldwide.
I've been fiddling with this for a couple of days now, and I'm at my wit's end. I'm trying to upload Marlin onto the controller board of my CTC i3 Pro B. It's a cheap Chinese printer. As far as I can tell, it uses the same board as the Anet A8 (I will attach some pictures of the board). I've been referencing this tutorial on youtube to accomplish this: ;t=563s
I have a hollow rod that is too large for my humble printer to handle. I am also very much a novice when it comes to using 3D modelling software and CAD. I was wondering if anyone has any advice, tips, tutorials on how to go about tackling this challenge.
Hello everyone, we have several 3D-Printers for sale in Hessen, Germany. U3+, MK3, Form2 and more for a very good price (materials included). Please get in touch firstname.lastname@example.org for more information. Greetings Oliver Arlt
Hello there, I've just start to deal with a zcorp 310 3D printer, and the problem that I have is changing the printing settings: the software lets me change just the type of the powder and the layer thickness. is there any possibility to change the powder settings also, or some other parameters like the roll speed, binder saturation, curing time, etc?
I printed many object on my zortrax m200 without any problem. But now I have this issue with this big print, but after 4 hours of 24, the print failed. I printed, the first time with zultrat 0.9 layer thickness, and fan speed to 0 (like zortrax said with large prints), top layers 9, bottom layer 4, infill 10%.
Hello, as the title says, i'm looking for a 3d printer, i've already found 2 printer but can't decide which to buy. One is anycubic kossel linear plus and the other is ender 3. Thanks
At about a depth of 10-15mm my platform stops moving down and the print head usually gets jammed and print fails. The leveling operation works smoothly all the way up and down. When prints start the platform moves up smoothly. When I cancel the print after the fail, the platform moves down smoothly. Any suggestions on what to check or do to troubleshoot would be appreciated.
Hello all! I've just purchased an Anet a6 and I really want to upgrade some things. First I want to upgrade by getting 2 Noctua 40mm 12v fans. Second I would like to upgrade the stock PSU to an extra modular ATX I've had that's just sitting around from an old PC build I've had (I need help with all the wiring). Third I want to get a "glass sheet" preferably 3mm to place on top of the hotbed.
Replacement for the stock square pan, make your bed fun again. https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/RapidlyPrototyping
Hi all, I'm still fairly new to 3D printing but have managed to make props for recent comic cons. I'm wanting to do a kings guard armour from Game of Thrones however I'm not entirely sure how to make it. Theoretically, would it be possible to make this as layers from my 3D printer? I have an Anet A8 Many thanks
Hi there, because of other priorities we are selling our form2 printer. The printer is in good shape and has several attributes. 3x new lt tanks, in use: 5 regular tanks and one lt tank +-10 open resin tanks and one or 2 new resin tanks. 3x in use build platforms. +Cleaning kit We are asking 2500 euro and ship only within Europe, pickup is in the Netherlands.