I'm considering these two machines but I'd like to print in ABS, is anyone successfully printing ABS? If so, any tricks or recommendations?
Hi, I'm totaly new to 3D modeling and printing so please forgive my weird questions :-) I need to print a fin for a stand up paddleboard I'm using for river running, it has to be very tough as it will be strongly shocked and slided on rocks. What material should I use? ABS or nylon looks to be the choices? Plus I wonder if 3D printing is "full material" or hollow?Thank you!
anyone got a photo of surface finish for ABS with 499 micron layer depth?
I am having a peculiar issue which others might have faced and wanted to know if there is a solution. When I am doing ABS prints, normally at 0.15 layer height, and the part requires supports, the first layer Vive the support starts to warm maximum.
Hi guys, My name is Vim and I am currently designing a 3D Printer Air Filter Unit that can moderate its fan speed according to the filament being used. I was wondering if anyone happens to know of any air quality sensors that are sensitive to the smell of the melting plastic (mostly ABS or PLA)? Many thanks Guys! Vim
Not sure what is the issue here, smaller objects do not have this problem. Same model with PLA also no issues. Filament: Hatchbox ABS Temp: 230 Nozzle, 120 Bed Fan: 0ff Pinter: Qiditech 1 (enclosed), right nozzle only Bed: Glass w/hairspray Brim: Yes
Hello, I read that 3D printers with an enclosure is better for health as they prevent the fume from spreading around the room. I cannot understand the validity of this statement because as soon as the user opens the door to take out the printout, the fume comes out from the printer and spread across the room. So, why having an enclosure is better for health?
Hi guys, I was hoping the 3D Printing community would be able to help me with a design project I am undertaking at Bournemouth University in the UK. (I am designing an air filter unit for FDM 3D Printers). Please could you simply answer the below questions:
I have been printing 6 sided dice sets with ABS for about a year and suddenly, after a break of about a month, I started getting bad stringing between the dice. I have a Printrbot Simple Metal with a Ubis 13S hot end using Cura 15.04 and 75% infill. The following is what I've done to try and correct the problem. print speed is 50mm/s print with brand new filament reduce temp down to 220
Hi, all. I am having another newbie problem. The tops of my abs prints are kind of wavy and bubbly. It’s really getting on my nerves. I’m using the white abs that came with my qidi tech 1. I’m printing with 110c build plate, and extruding at 235c. I’m using makerware, but oh so close to saying screw it and getting simplify3d. Does anybody know how I could resolve this problem?
I use kapton tape on my printer bed to keep ABS down and prevent it from warping but as some of you might know kapton tape it pretty difficult to put down well. So I end up with air bubbles under the tape that turn into 'dents' on the face down side of the print. I wondering if any of you all have figured out a better way to put down kapton tape to minimize this? Thanks!
Since I started 3D printing, I've spent a lot of time fixing various sorts of issues while printing ABS and I felt like sharing my knowledge, so here is a simple guide to getting almost perfect ABS prints every time. Temperature I use 240°C for the nozzle and 110°C for bed. You could probably go higher but I don't recommend much lower. Bed and adhesion
I am using a STRATASYS Fortus 250mc to 3D print some parts. I have read a lot on internet and also on some scientific literature that Acetone dissolves ABS and cold/hot vapor has been successfully used to smoothen the surfaces. But it doesn't work for me.
I'm looking for a cheap 3D printer that is able to print ABS and that needs no modification to it. My budget is around 300 - 500 dollars. What i'm going to using the printer for is making action figures.
Our shop is based out of Cleveland, OH and is currently sending out orders (same day). Our prices are arguably the lowest in the western world while holding high standards of quality. Free ground shipping for orders exceeding $70.00 across the USA. (That's 7 rolls, out the door, for $70.00 flat!) https://catalyst-ds.com
I am currently working on a study and I want to know the challenges/problems faced when 3D printing additional polymer features and structures over/on top of previously injection-molded plastic parts in a way that there is a good adhesion between the underlying injection molded part and the overlying 3D printed structure.
I'm brand new on the 3D printing scene and just got put in charge of my company's new 3D printer (we basically drew straws...), a MakerBot 2X. We want to see if 3D printing will be useful for us for prototyping/making fixtures before we purchase more printers.
First off, Im a noob to printing with this printer and everything I have done so far has been culled from a lot of sources on the net. I did all of the safety upgrades, better power supply, 2 mosfets, one for the bed and the nozzle, soldered the wires to bed. I did a few nice to have upgrades, all made with the monoprice mini, ( which is a total workhorse BTW),
Im printing out a part for a customer and I wanted to know if abs will work or if I need to go to petg or nylon or even carbon fiber reinforced. The part will be used in a water turbine. The part will be at a constant 60 psi with water biting. It and there might be A few rocks in the water.