Hi, I'm totaly new to 3D modeling and printing so please forgive my weird questions :-) I need to print a fin for a stand up paddleboard I'm using for river running, it has to be very tough as it will be strongly shocked and slided on rocks. What material should I use? ABS or nylon looks to be the choices? Plus I wonder if 3D printing is "full material" or hollow?Thank you!
I am having a peculiar issue which others might have faced and wanted to know if there is a solution. When I am doing ABS prints, normally at 0.15 layer height, and the part requires supports, the first layer Vive the support starts to warm maximum.
Hello, I read that 3D printers with an enclosure is better for health as they prevent the fume from spreading around the room. I cannot understand the validity of this statement because as soon as the user opens the door to take out the printout, the fume comes out from the printer and spread across the room. So, why having an enclosure is better for health?
I have been printing 6 sided dice sets with ABS for about a year and suddenly, after a break of about a month, I started getting bad stringing between the dice. I have a Printrbot Simple Metal with a Ubis 13S hot end using Cura 15.04 and 75% infill. The following is what I've done to try and correct the problem. print speed is 50mm/s print with brand new filament reduce temp down to 220
Hi, all. I am having another newbie problem. The tops of my abs prints are kind of wavy and bubbly. It’s really getting on my nerves. I’m using the white abs that came with my qidi tech 1. I’m printing with 110c build plate, and extruding at 235c. I’m using makerware, but oh so close to saying screw it and getting simplify3d. Does anybody know how I could resolve this problem?
I use kapton tape on my printer bed to keep ABS down and prevent it from warping but as some of you might know kapton tape it pretty difficult to put down well.  So I end up with air bubbles under the tape that turn into 'dents' on the face down side of the print.  I wondering if any of you all have figured out a better way to put down kapton tape to minimize this? Thanks!
Since I started 3D printing, I've spent a lot of time fixing various sorts of issues while printing ABS and I felt like sharing my knowledge, so here is a simple guide to getting almost perfect ABS prints every time.   Temperature I use 240°C for the nozzle and 110°C for bed. You could probably go higher but I don't recommend much lower. Bed and adhesion
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I am currently working on a study and I want to know the challenges/problems faced when 3D printing additional polymer features and structures over/on top of previously injection-molded plastic parts in a way that there is a good adhesion between the underlying injection molded part and the overlying 3D printed structure.