Hi everyone, guys! After a long time finally I will have my 3D printer, it will be a long-awaited gift, and my choice was Prusa MK3, but if at that price there are other possible candidates I accept advice because I have no idea! thanks everyone in advance
For the past few years, I have owned a cheap Chinese printer(print-rite collido diy). every time something broke or had issues, I would bodge in(mostly 3D printed) fix.
Hi Everybody! I was wondering for all of the Prusa owners out there, how often do you need to replace certain parts? I've had my MK2 since late June this year and it has developed a short in the wiring of the thermistor for the heat bed. Prusa doesn't sell that thermistor on their site, only the one for the hot end.
Hi everybody, i want to buy a new 3d printer basically to have dual extruder support to let me print with the support material, i was about to buy a flashforge creator pro (now i have a makerbot replicator 2) but then i saw the Multimaterial upgrade for the Prusa and i am very curious about the possibility to print 3 color and a support!
Hello, I work in the IT department of a high school, and a new proposal for a makerspace has come up. I have been asked to select which printers the school will be purchasing come the fall. We're looking for two or three different printers. I'm partial to the Prusa i3 MK2 for at least one of them, as it is a great value and has plenty of features that prevent it from destroying itself.
Hi everyone. I just got my Prusa last week and only managed to assemble it yesterday. I did 2 prints (Prusa logo and Pug Buddy) and I'm pretty happy with how it went. No issues with assembly or the calibration, the only issue was with the PINDA probe height (which was set too high) but I managed to get it working while adjusting Live Z by -0,750 mm.
Hey everyone, I have an original Prusa i3 mk2, I have had it since June 27, 2016. It has been printing perfectly until now. Now I have weird layers showing on my models. They only happen on 200-300 microns, but 100 microns is perfect. Also, it happens with both PLA, and Abs. I have tried using curs rather than s3d, and it still happens.
background - purchased an Anet A8 from the"factory" - within a week - the SD card slot failed. I had never been able to connect it via USB and Repetier ( using 21inch 2011 Apple iMac running current and updated Sierra 10.12.4) After being refused a free replacement - the attitude changed when I advised a PP case would follow. After another 2 weeks I got it.
Hi I plan to buy a mk2s and mount it like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1692666 with other bearing and with side panels Ok this machine is a killer with PLA but with ABS and ABS with kevlar and thinks like that? Can i have the same qualitat than a zortrax m200? Because i will print more ABS than PLA? Thanks a lot
Hi everyone, I am having some troubles with my Original Prusa i3 MK2 and getting the Marvin print to turn out good. The Printer was a kit but calibration says that everything is perpendicular. Belts and everything are also tensioned, I don't believe that something is stuttering.
I live in Canada and I'm looking at getting the above mentioned 3D printer, and a bunch of different options are given with which currency to buy it in. For the Canadian dollar its best for me to buy it buy converting to the Czech koruna. Their chat said that its best for me to buy in USD only because of how canadian banks might work., but this would make it cost at least another $100.
Hi everyone, I have recently ordered a Prusa i3 mk2 (Still waiting for it to arrive) and we have a Zortrax M200 at work so I was able to gather some experience with 3D Printing. When my Prusa arrives I want to build up some knowledge about filaments. Which filament brands would you guys recommend? I have seen that eSun gets good scores and others say that it`s brittle...
Hi, I have a small Problem with my 3D prints. In the photos you can se in the front the overlapping layers does anyone know what the problem is and how to solve it ?0 It happens only with ABS and HT filament, PLA and Bronze filament are working perfectly fine. It would realy help me out a lot
[Update 2/23/17] Hi folks - sorry for the delay in updating this post. Swamped. These kits are no longer available, local pick up. Thanks everyone for your interest. --Original Post--
I was printing a vase. I am not sure what happened but on the back side of the vase you could see a clear pattern of something... I am not sure if it is layer shifting or something else. It is only on the back of the print. I am using the i3 Prusa MK2. Any ideas what this is? I haven't noticed it in any other prints.
Hello. I've recently started 3D printing with my Prusa i3 MK2, and have been getting good prints off of it. There are a couple of issues that I don't quite know how to fix. As seen in one of the images, there is a tiny, tiny gap between filament lines in the final layer of the print. Is this underextrusion? The other picture has me a little more confused.
Hi, I am having a couple of problems with my Prusa i3 MK2. It appears that most prints have some weird lines. I printed the rectangle at 200 microns, about 15mm/s or less with PLA and 100% fan speed, hot end at 190C. Marvin had the same problem but it has been printed with the file from the included SD card (marvin printed at 100 microns). I already contacted support but this was their message:
Recently I was considering buying a Prusa i3, I've read exceptional comments about it and it looked like a good option. However, on the past days I stumbled uppon the Tevo Little Monster and it seems tempting. It offers a great build volume (considerably bigger than the i3) and it is supposed to be fast being a delta.
I have a new (a few weeks old), but slightly used fully assembled Original Prusa i3 Mk2s that I would like to sell. I bought it for about $1000, and would like to sell it for around $750. I will include one unopened spool of Makergeeks dark green ABS. I will also include 3D Printed vibration dampening feet for the printer (to make it even more quiet).