I have a DaVinci Color Jet 3D Printer for sale. Perfect working condition. Will demo to the new buyer. No mods. No issues. I was using this to start a 3d selfie business but I don't have the time to devote to it. Fortunately, I'm busy enough with my normal 3d printing thru 3d Hubs to no longer branch out in a different direction.
I have the Qidi X-one2 & use Hatchbox PLA 1.75mm filament. When printing with the default settings, my prints often have lines or indentions streaked across where the nozzle leaves a line to head over to another area. I tried to alter the settings & enable retraction/z-hop among a few other tweaks & I get lots of stringing. With default settings, I had no ccleanup, but lines...
My car 10 is not extruding when it’s supposed to and i tried 3 different nozzles but the most it will do is make dots.
So im trying to print a fan attachment for my A8. it prints the base layer then moves to the left about half an inch and starts printing the next layer vs moving up. Do i need to update the firmware? if so is there a way to update from an sd card?
As the title states I am a heck of time getting my Flsun delta printer to level out. When I first bought the printer it worked well for several months, except that it was loud. So I recently upgraded the motherboard (from a Gen_L to a Gen 1.4) and TMC2130s for controllers. In the process I also had to upgrade the firmware and I haven't been able to get it working since.
When printer starts the priming line it goes about 2 inches before it starts extruding. From there it does the same basic thing when starting the skirt line. After that, everything prints fine. No setting in S3D that I have manipulated seems to make a difference. Wondering if anyone else has had this issue. Thanks
When running a print, it will start and pull the bed over the y axis towards the switch and tries to go further and makes the belt jump teeth. Not great and i wonder what i need to do to stop this from happening? Help would be great, this is my first printer and only printer two items. Results are very good, impressed with the result.
Help. I have just uploaded marlin to my ramps 1.4 and arduino, but it does not show any change on the LCD that I have connected. The upload is successful aswell, but does not do anything.
Hi hope somebody can help, I have a Anycubic Kossel pully printer, it has just flashed up on the screen "Error: Mintemp", but doesn't come up all the time, is it just some muck on a sensor ? Cheers for any help
Hello, I am using the stock extruder for CR10S. I am sure the wire from the motherboard to extruder is functional because it works with my other Bondtech extruder, so the problem is most likely with the stock extruder itself: when I go to the printer's menu > prepare > move axis> extruder > + x.xx the gear does not move at all no matter how high millimeter value I set. Barring that the
Anyone who can help find the issue? I was removing the current filament and changing the position of the printhead via the Repetier manual movement options. It went up a bit and then stopped responding all together. It will show up display, it will connect via USB, but wont do anything to take orders via manual button on the display or via PC. All looks fine, but it just does nothing :(
Hi! My name is Igor! I would be happy to help anyone who needs to make any 3d model for printing I have a huge sculpting and modeling for printing experience. Anatomy, medicine, characters, and faces are my area of specialization but i also do hard surface stuff, all types of file formats. The prices are at 25-30% lower than market average for this level of quality.
I recently bought a k8200 as my first ever 3d printer. I assembled it according to the manual and now i have the error, that the z axis only works while homeing and it only vibrates in manual control (repetier host) Video: https://1drv.ms/v/s!Aky0xdCf6DbEqBtjYcTtlGhKeX9g ( first homing after manual control)
Hello everybody! I've been 3D printing at home with a Printrbot Metal for about 4 years. I mostly design and print parts for repair, jigs and specialty clamps for various projects, custom mounts, molds for making replacement rubber bumpers... Surface finish and overall aesthetics generally mean very little to me add long as what comes off the bed is strong and dimensionally accurate.
So I just got a new CR-10S, and the print came out just fine with the included pla. However when I put in my own filament(relatively cheap), the extrusion gear scrapes off the plastic and won't pull it any longer. Does anyone have a fix?
I have just updated my i3 printer with a #00 X 300 heated bed, it worked, it took 12minutes to heat up to 50c. On given advice I increased the voltage to 24v and added a mosfet module, but this has given me the following problems. 1) the bed heats on power up. 2) it does not stop at the designated temp, just keeps rising, until powered off. 3) still heats when disconnected from controller.
Hi, hope someone can help me here. I recently added a 300 X 300 heat bed, it worked ok except it took 12mins to reach 50c. On advise I purchased a mosfet unit, after connecting it all up, yes the temp time increased greatly, but it failed to stop at the designated time. Any ideas why this is and how to fix it Thankss Ernie
Hello! I just got a brand new (to me) Dremel 3D Idea Builder (the 3D20). After leveling the bed for the first time, and printing out a few pretty cool stuff (the beginnings of a Daft Punk helmet), I started having issues. I use the 3D20 compatibility plugin for the Ultimaker Cura Slicer, and 3DPrinterOS.
I was unjamming my extruder and now that Ive gotten it fixed my fan for that specific side stayed spinning. Update. As I was typing this it spun down and turned off? Is that residual spinning from the heating process? I had to preheat it to clean the extruder. But it has just now turned off. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks, T.
Does anyone know of a low cost desktop SLA 3D Printer that has a laser running at 355nm?