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I have the Qidi X-one2 & use Hatchbox PLA 1.75mm filament. When printing with the default settings, my prints often have lines or indentions streaked across where the nozzle leaves a line to head over to another area. I tried to alter the settings & enable retraction/z-hop among a few other tweaks & I get lots of stringing. With default settings, I had no ccleanup, but lines...
As the title states I am a heck of time getting my Flsun delta printer to level out. When I first bought the printer it worked well for several months, except that it was loud. So I recently upgraded the motherboard (from a Gen_L to a Gen 1.4) and TMC2130s for controllers. In the process I also had to upgrade the firmware and I haven't been able to get it working since.  
When printer starts the priming line it goes about 2 inches before it starts extruding. From there it does the same basic thing when starting the skirt line. After that, everything prints fine. No setting in S3D that I  have manipulated seems to make a difference. Wondering if anyone else has had this issue.   Thanks 
Hello, I am using the stock extruder for CR10S. I am sure the wire from the motherboard to extruder is functional because it works with my other Bondtech extruder, so the problem is most likely with the stock extruder itself: when I go to the printer's menu > prepare > move axis> extruder > + x.xx the gear does not move at all no matter how high millimeter value I set. Barring that the
Anyone who can help find the issue?   I was removing the current filament and changing the position of the printhead via the Repetier manual movement options. It went up a bit and then stopped responding all together.   It will show up display, it will connect via USB, but wont do anything to take orders via manual button on the display or via PC.   All looks fine, but it just does nothing :(    
Hi! My name is Igor! I would be happy to help anyone who needs to make any 3d model for printing I have a huge sculpting and modeling for printing experience. Anatomy, medicine, characters, and faces are my area of specialization but i also do hard surface stuff, all types of file formats. The prices are at 25-30% lower than market average for this level of quality.
Hello everybody! I've been 3D printing at home with a Printrbot Metal for about 4 years. I mostly design and print parts for repair, jigs and specialty clamps for various projects, custom mounts, molds for making replacement rubber bumpers... Surface finish and overall aesthetics generally mean very little to me add long as what comes off the bed is strong and dimensionally accurate.
I have just updated my i3 printer with a #00 X 300 heated bed, it worked, it took 12minutes to heat up to 50c. On given advice I increased the voltage to 24v and added a mosfet module, but this has given me the following problems. 1) the bed heats on power up. 2) it does not stop at the designated temp, just keeps rising, until powered off. 3) still heats when disconnected from controller.
Hi, hope someone can help me here. I recently added a 300 X 300 heat bed, it worked ok except it took 12mins to reach 50c. On advise I purchased a mosfet unit, after connecting it all up, yes the temp time increased greatly, but it failed to stop at the designated time. Any ideas why this is and how to fix it Thankss Ernie
I was unjamming my extruder and now that Ive gotten it fixed my fan for that specific side stayed spinning. Update. As I was typing this it spun down and turned off? Is that residual spinning from the heating process? I had to preheat it to clean the extruder. But it has just now turned off. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks, T.

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